thackrah

We meandered across France from Troyes to the sea at Dunkirk. One town that we happened across, and which we think will be worth a return visit at some time, was Laon.

Part of the Laon skyline

Laon sits on a hill, and is visible from many miles off. The skyline is definitely Gothic and very striking. As you approach the town more detail becomes visible and invites further inspection. We had time only to drive up the series of hairpin bends to arrive under the ramparts and admire the view.

We have made a diary comment to plan to return for a more detailed tour in a couple of years from now and learn more of Laon and see what it has to offer.

Our arrival at Dunkirk was a little ahead of schedule, and we were lucky enough to get on an earlier ferry sailing (thanks to DFDS/Norfolk Line, very nice people) and after a reasonable transit of the M20 and M25 Royce Close was reached just before 10 p.m.

A weary but happy couple retired to bed at just after 11, to start the big clear-up tomorrow.

We decided to drive from Albertville in the Alps to Troyes in Champagne by ordinary N and D roads rather than the A (Autoroute, motorway) roads. We passed through much interesting countryside and many many small towns and villages most of which seemed almost devoid of human presence.

Though progress was slower, we feel that we saw much more of France than we would have done travelling at 130 Kph on the faster road.

The latter part of the journey followed the valley of the Seine, from its start as a stream through to Troyes, where it is definitely a sizable river. Troyes itself is a bit of a revelation. We had picked it off the map as a place to stay roughly halfway between the Alps and the Channel. On looking around we were impressed by the number of half timbered houses (similar to Tudor in England) but which had assumed all sorts of crazy angles and ‘out of true’ elevations.

An example of an out of true building in Troyes

As we walked round the town we realised that about half the centre of the town is made up of these buildings, so we investigated to get more information.

Apparently there was a big fire in Troyes in the early 16th century, and the town had to be rebuilt, and that is when most of these buildings originated.

There was also a Treaty of Troyes, which has significance for the English. It was signed in 1420 and authorised Henry 5th of England to be betrothed to Catherine, daughter of Charles 7th of France, and by this means Henry would inherit the French crown ahead of the Dauphin. Some of these events are covered in Shakespeare’s play, Henry 5th.

The outcome was reversed by Joan of Arc who recaptured Troyes in 1429.

Tomorrow we will continue our return journey, leaving the coast of France on the 8 o’clock ferry, arriving back in Dunstable around 11 p.m.

Only a quick entry tonight.

A long drive over the Alps, leaving Viareggio before 10, and crossing the mountains via the Frejus Tunnel, and a gentle cruise down the smaller roads to arrive in Albertville in Savoie by 5 o’clock.

After some deliberation we have decided to head directly for home over the next couple of days rather than explore more deeply into La belle France. The weather has passed its best, and we are getting a little travel weary. We hope to be back at home late Thursday evening, overnighting in Troyes tomorrow having spent time in Beaune researching the Burgundian wines.

A bientot!

It may be blindingly obvious, but the tower in Pisa does lean. The pictures do not really

It fits the description more than adequately

show what your eyes tell you in real life. It really is quite dramatic and a little bit scary when walking near the tower just how much out of true it is.

Looking round the town and the immediate location we were struck by how more open and attractive things are in Pisa than in some of the other towns and cities we have been in. Relaxed, laid back, full of tourists, of course, but somehow more welcoming and generously laid out.

We also found that not only the tower leans, we came across these trees at the edge of the Duomo gardens, and they also have a decided lean, but at 90 degrees to the lean of the tower.

The leaning trees of Pisa

By the way, a little snippet that could be useful in a quiz sometime, in which compass direction does the tower lean? The answer? South.

On to Viareggio, and we have found that our hotel booking is something out of the ordinary.

Sea view balcony

As it is out of season they have cut the prices to about a quarter, so we are staying in a massive room with sea view balcony, 20 foot ceilings, and a very Roccoco interior. Too posh for the likes of us.

Part of our room

Viareggio is overlooked by mountains to the north – picture included seen from the beach.

Viareggio beach and mountains beyond

Tomorrow, over the Alps and back into France.

We left Pompeii first thing this morning for a relaxed four hour run north to Orvieto in

Monte Cassino, Castle Hill, and Cassino Town (you really need to know what you are looking at to make sense of this!

Umbria.On the way we stopped briefly at Cassino, the scene of a significant battle in WW2, where the Allies bombed a monastery (Monte Cassino) and took some heavy criticism for doing so. Needless to say bombing a church was bad, but pales a little when you consider what the other side did, many times over.

Orvieto town is ancient, and sits atop a hill at about 600 feet above sea level. The hill is/was a volcanic plug (much like Arthur’s Seat in Edinburgh). At one time various people have used it as a refuge, including a former Pope (Clement 7th in 1527).

We climbed up to the town by a pedestrian path leading upwards from our hotel.

The walls of Orvieto as we walked up the hill

Narrow streets, many, many churches, some very picturesque, some decidedly down at heel. A very popular place for tourists.

Anyway, we have enjoyed our time here, as we have done in other hilltop towns, such as M’Dina in Malta. Maybe we will plan another holiday around visiting hill top towns.

A panorama from Orvieto wall with a pretty girl in view

One notable event of today – Elizabeth had her first ice cream for many many months, maybe even a year.

Girl meets ice cream, ice cream meets girl, one of them melts and is consumed

Tomorrow we move on, visiting Pisa and staying the night at the Italian equivalent of Torquay, Viareggio.

Pompei! Here we are at the entrance to the city.

Up Pompei

The old city was good, the modern city is bad – more of this later.

First problem was to find the entrance, then navigate around without a map – they had run out!!!

Well, needless to add, we did manage to find our way around without missing too many of the highlights. An example or two of pictures to show a few things.

A Roman veil dance

As we were warned, there were innumerable parties of cruise ship/saga louts/gangs of youngsters clogging the place up. This did prove useful a few times as we could earwig and get some free interpretation of the archaeology.

I mentioned the modern city. The worst of it is the apparently reckless behaviour of motorists, cyclists, and pedestrians. You really do need  to have eyes front, back, and sides of your head when driving and walking.

Another issue which developed was our sat-nav. The charging lead has developed a fault, but with a little ingenuity gleaned from many years on old motorbikes and cars we managed to bodge it, at least until we get back to Blighty.

This afternoon we went up Mount Vesuvius. There is a good road up to around 3,000 feet,

Yours trulies on Mount Vesuvius

then a walk up a moderate path to about 3770 feet (according to my gps equipped phone). Bright sun, warm, with just a light breeze, it was glorious! The only disappointment was being overtaken by a cyclist, twice, on the way down the mountain again in the car. It says something when a cyclist is brave (or reckless) enough to exceed the speed limit on hairpin bends. Che sera sera.

Tomorrow we turn northwards, and will visit Cassino, scene of a major battle in WW2, and on to the hill top town of Orvieto for the night.

Naples seen from the top of Vesuvius

Today was Ostia Antica, the old port town for the city of Rome when it was at its height of power. The town covers an area roughly one mile by a half mile, and was lost to sight in the fifth or sixth century. Excavations started around the 18th Century, and have now advanced to the point where you can get a real sense of the layout and life in Roman times.

Here are some views from the town:

Ostia general view

Another general view

Yet another view

And yet more of Ostia

One of many mosaics still intact

We are very taken by the place, and would recommend a visit to anyone who will be in the Rome area – an easy train ride from the city.

Aparently there were several notable Brits involved in the earlier excavations. Their motivations, though were not fully honourable. It seems that their main interest was in finding ancient artifacts to sell and make some money for themselves. Thus, many of the statues etc found there are now in collections around the world, including the Vatican, who also had less than scientific interest in acquiring artifacts.

At least this was better than the local people in the middle ages who robbed out nearly all the marble for conversion into cement for building. Pretty much all the marble cladding dissappeared this way, leaving the walls bare. Such is life.

We have now travelled south to near Pompeii, whose charms we will experience tomorrow.

Have you ever had the feeling that you are out of step with the world? I have. Frequently.

Florentine Skyline

On our second day in Florence I had to ask myself whether I was the only person who thought that it was too touristy and soulless. Was it possible that I did not have the artistic appreciation to understand and see what Florence has to offer those of a more creative persuasion. To be honest, I was feeling that Florence was a bit of a pit,

Then, in the Boboli Gardens Elizabeth met an English couple who also feel that Florence is over-rated and charmless. This evening, on arrival at our hotel in Ostia Antica we met an American couple, Merry and Ron Lloyd. As well as finding that we had a lot

At Dinner with Merry and Ron Lloyd

more than a language in common with Merry and Ron, we found that they also felt that other Italian cities have a lot more to offer, more soul, more atmosphere, than Florence. So I declare now that it must be made official. Florence is no longer a cultural capital, it is a culture less place.

It has art, it has architecture, but it lacks human texture.

On arrival in Ostia, the reverse seemed to be true. The location looked down at heel, and lacking in any form of high culture. Had we made a mistake in booking an hotel here? At first we were not sure.

From this low point things have been on the up. The owner, Max arrived, and proved to be a sterling and charming host. The room and facilities belie the locality. We have had a fantastic evening dining with new friends (Merry and Ron). Balance has returned to our lives. We are happy once more. We will sleep the sleep of the contented.

Tomorrow we look forward to the Roman ruins of Ostia Antica, the ancient port for the empire of Rome, and then onwards to Naples and Pompeii.

This morning started with a pleasant chat with mine host at the hotel, Simone. He and his wife have a pomegranate tree in their garden, but neither eats them, so a cheeky Elizabeth blagged a few fruits to eat. In peeling them she managed to distribute seeds and juice in every direction, but said that the taste was delicious.

The journey down to Florence went well and we arrived here about 2 o’clock. While most of the journey off the autostrada into the city went to plan, just as we got close to the hotel we found that the roads were closed, and thus had to make up a new route on the spot to try and get into the right street. Luckily Tim’s sense of direction held out and after a few hairy turns and changes of lane we managed to find a way in.

We immediately set off for down town. A visit to five or six of the top ten attractions followed. The amazing thing is, the most common language that we heard through the day was English, not Italian, so it did not feel like being in Italy at all.

Il Duomo Florence

Ponte Vecchio Florence

We only had time to see the externals of the various buildings today, and plan to spend tomorrow morning in the Ufizzi Gallery absorbing a little culture and admiring the paintings. Lunchtime will see us departing for Ostia Antica, just outside Rome. This was the port area for Rome in the ancient times, and based on advice from both our daughters, Victoria and Catherine, Ostia is worth the effort to visit as it is more complete than other ruins.

Until tomorrow, Salute!

Today was spent in the Asiago area again, looking at more sites of military interest from the First World War. We visited Magnaboschi British Military Cemetery where three of my comrades are buried. While there we met an Australian lady, Rita, who has been in the area for seven weeks tracing her Italian family roots. Her mother was Italian born, her father Australian. She spoke very little Italian, despite being here for a time. She told us much of her experiences, including with the family who now live in the house that her mother was born in.

Later we walked through the woods to Mont Lemerle. This is a prominent hill overlooking

Elizabeth at the entrance to an underground bunker from 1918

Tim with some left over barbed wire from 1918

the battlefield and was heavily fortified by the Italian Army in 1915, and was the scene of heavy conflict in 1915 and 1916 when the Austrians attacked. There remain many identifiable traces of this past – see the pictures. My interest in Mont Lemerle was that my battery were there in 1918 when the Austrians attacked again, and I have first hand accounts of events in the battle and it was good to stand where others stood in more troubled times and risked their all for the common good.

While on Mont Lemerle we met some ‘funghi hunters’ who were kind enough to show us their haul of porcini mushrooms. Foraging for mushrooms is obviously more common here in Italy than in UK where I think we are probably a bit nervous over picking poisonous species.

Later we decided to ‘chill’ in another part of the woods, and managed to nod off for a half hour or so.

Tomorrow we are off to see Florence, about 180 miles south from here, and then on further south. Watch this space for further reports of progress.

Best Wishes, Tim & Elizabeth